This was three weeks ago, but I’ve only just managed
to borrow a cable to transfer my photos from my camera to my computer.
Maslenitsa is a week long religious and folk festival before the start of
Orthodox lent. It may have originally been a festival to celebrate the Sun and
the end of winter. Nowadays it is the last week in which Christians are allowed
to eat milk, cheese and other dairy products before Lent, so people make
pancakes all week long.
I went with my roommate to Suzdal, a town on the Golden
Ring. Suzdal is the Russian version of Lacock, in that it has been
protected from development and hence is used in all period dramas, with the
locals often roped in as extras.
We got there on the Friday night, after an epic journey from
Moscow bus station that took us 6 hours and involved passing three car crashes,
all to cover the same distance as from London to Nottingham. I suppose this is
why the oligarchs have helicopters. On the Saturday morning though, the
horrendous journey seemed worth it. Suzdal was covered in snow, and not the way
Moscow is where it looks like someone has spray painted the snow deep brown,
but snow like in movies, which somehow never gets dirty or slushy.
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Nativity of the Virgin Cathedral |
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Believe it or not there a river in this picture |
We traipsed down to the open air architecture museum, where
the day began with a parade that involved some people in traditional costume
and other people dressed as geese, followed by Round 1 in the Goose Fighting
competition. Unfortunately, these geese were lovers not fighters, so it took a
lot of coaxing from their keepers before they started biting each other. As I
understand it, technically it is supposed to go to First Blood, but the
audience got bored way before that and started yelling, so the organisers ended
the fight and determined the winner based on points (I have no idea how that
works).
Next came climbing up a pole to grab a prize stuck at the top.
Presumably for reasons of increased grip, most participants seemed to think
this was best done wearing as few clothes as possible. I should note that it
was pretty cold, probably twelve below zero or something, with a biting wind,
and it snowed pretty much non-stop. If you made it to the top, apart from the
adoration of the crowd, you got a roast goose.
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How to get hypothermia in pursuit of a goose |
Throughout the day there was traditional music and dancing,
sledging, rides in horse-drawn sleighs, a game which involved hitting your
opponent with a pillow until they fell off a log, and a never-ending tug-of-war.
There were no teams, passers by just piled in on whichever side looked like
losing, and then left when they had had enough, to be replaced immediately by
others. And whenever it all got too cold, you could buy hot pancakes and tea,
spiced wine or sbiten, a honey-based drink. Alternatively you could go and sit
in the wooden church, which was warm (this option was very popular).
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Trying to knock your friend off a log with a pillow |
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Jingle bells |
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Not sure why there was a sword fight but hey... |
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Massive snowball fight which resulted in the total destruction of the snowhouse (this was the aim) |
The following day was pretty much the same but in a different
location, and ended at around 4pm with the burning of the baba, a figure of a
woman who personifies winter. After
that, everyone rapidly disappeared, and we were left with another mammoth
journey back to Moscow, during which we left one person behind after stopping
for a toilet break in the middle of nowhere. Travelling in Russia is not without risk.
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Goodbye, Winter! |
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